![]() ![]() ![]() This information is valid for this Site only and not also for the other websites that may be consulted by the user via the links on the website. In my experience, metal anvils stands are just handicapping yourself unnecessarily.This document concerns the handling of the personal data of the users of the website (hereinafter referred to as "Site") and the personal data confidentiality policy (Privacy Protection) adopted by the company Blacksmith snc, which is responsible for the management of the Site. I personally have tried metal anvils stands in the past, and unless the only factor is mobility, I'd never use a metal stand. I sized the oak to be able to build new anvil stands.and there is a huge/very noticeable difference in how much more efficient the same anvil is when used on an oak stand, versus a soft wood or metal stand. I used pine bridge timbers for anvil stands when I first moved to Montana, but several years ago we took a trip to Indiana (where we grew up), and purchased a trailer load of oak, hickory, cherry, and walnut. ![]() There is a HUGE difference in the energy transfer, not only from steel stands to wooden stands, but also from soft wood stands to hardwood stands. Here in Montana, most hardwoods (oak, hickory, etc) are considered exotic hardwoods, and you either pay BIG bucks per board foot, or you use soft woods. When Kevin mentioned "oak trees" I had to smile. What I did was find a local saw mill that had log ends, or friends with oak trees they wanted gone, and got my anvil stands from them. I would recommend the greatest grounded mass for the level of dedicated position that you can afford. In this case it is the trade-off of convenience to move that anvil to the efficiency of blows. So, as with everything, it is a compromise. I followed the original 1924 instructions for the foundation of my Bradley hammer and poured a 4’X4’圆’ foundation and have enjoyed the power it gives that hammer. I have watched the sow block of power hammers bounce on a 4x4 base, and hit with about half of their potential force because of it. I have also worked on plenty of stacked 2X4 or 4x4 bases and still felt the difference. If you ever forge on such a setup you will understand why within a couple of hammer blows. Ideally, for maximum efficiency, I would have then embedded at least 2 feet into a solid earth base. This is still a compromise for the ability to move them if needed. Steel angle iron, and such, is the least efficient, solid foundations are better and embedded solid foundations are the best.įor this reason, all my anvils in my home shop are mounted on solid 20-24†oak log sections. It is simple physics, the more solid mass you have under that blow, the more energy you can put into the work piece rather than vibration and rebound of the foundation system. When I teach at schools that have the steel anvil stands I love the portability of a steel frame stand, but I know all along that I am sacrificing efficiency of hammer blows for it. A steel framework stand is ideal for something that you wish to move from different positions around the shop or other locations, but you totally sacrifice efficiency of blows for this convenience. For anvils it comes down to portability vs. Be it power hammer sow blocks or anvils I have seen so much kinetic energy wasted and absorbed by a poorly planned system. It all comes down to basic physics, and it is all about how much mass you have in an immovable base. Bill Moran School of Bladesmithing at Texarkana College. ![]()
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